Help: QOS Halves my speed On EPB Fiber Optics


Toink

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I'm on Plan 100/100 with EPB Fiber. When QOS is disabled, I'm getting my subscribed speed, always sometimes even higher :)....

EPB fbr.png

However when I enable QOS, and using default settings, and also my personal settings, I'm only getting less than half of my subscribed speed somewhere between 41 down / 38 up :mad:

Is it still wise to enable QOS? Or should I just leave it disabled?

Usual activities:

- Netflix on 5 devices (almost always by the kids)
- Email and browsing
- Watching YouTube
- Online gaming, Xbox, Wii (not much)
- FTP Server on Synology
- Remote Access via Teamviewer, SplashTop 2

Running tomato-E3000USB-NVRAM60K-1.28.0502.7MIPSR2Toastman-RT-N-VLAN-VPN-NOCAT on E3000

Also, I notice that 2.4 Ghz is overly crowded already in my area. Although 5Ghz is ok, E3000's wireless signal isn't that good. Do you guys suggest I replace it with an Asus RT-N66U? Will I get better wifi reception on both 2.4GHz and / 5GHz with the Asus?

I appreciate your help. Thanks!
 

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I'm on Plan 100/100 with EPB Fiber. When QOS is disabled, I'm getting my subscribed speed, always sometimes even higher :)....

View attachment 2033

However when I enable QOS, and using default settings, and also my personal settings, I'm only getting less than half of my subscribed speed somewhere between 41 down / 38 up :mad:

Is it still wise to enable QOS? Or should I just leave it disabled?

Usual activities:

- Netflix on 5 devices (almost always by the kids)
- Email and browsing
- Watching YouTube
- Online gaming, Xbox, Wii (not much)
- FTP Server on Synology
- Remote Access via Teamviewer, SplashTop 2

Running tomato-E3000USB-NVRAM60K-1.28.0502.7MIPSR2Toastman-RT-N-VLAN-VPN-NOCAT on E3000

Also, I notice that 2.4 Ghz is overly crowded already in my area. Although 5Ghz is ok, E3000's wireless signal isn't that good. Do you guys suggest I replace it with an Asus RT-N66U? Will I get better wifi reception on both 2.4GHz and / 5GHz with the Asus?

I appreciate your help. Thanks!

Hi Toink! There has been a discussion going on about this lately. The speed you are getting with a E3000 with Tomato and QOS is about right. About 50 Mbps max. Disable QOS and you'll get a little over 100 Mbps. With my RT-N66U I can get 100 Mbps with QOS enabled. We are starting to realize the limits of Tomato on current generation router hardware. With all the multimedia you have going QOS is a major plus to avoid skipping and lag. Tough call on you part. Sorry no good answer.
 
If you are not using the full 100mbps or are not bothered by latency issues then you don't need QoS. Netflix HD, for example, uses only 12mbps, SD much less. Try without QoS and see if there are any latency issues. If you need QoS and Tomato, then the N66 is ideal.

As for 2.4GHz congestion, make sure channel width is 20MHz, channel 1, 6, or 11. Because of non-wlan devices (phones, baby monitors, etc) and several factors regarding your neighbors wlans, without a proper spectrum analyzer the best channel is identified by trial and error.

N66 has a reputation for stronger signal, but don't judge by the bars on the screen or the SNR on the devices list. Judge by throughput and dropouts from the wireless devices. If performance meets your needs, then you don't need new hardware.
 
Out of curiosity, what happens if you set QOS to 200 mbps Up and 200 mbps Down? Does it still halve it? Or do you get more than 41 down / 38 up?
 
It will still cut throughput to the same extent. Setting the limits higher than the maximum throughput will just add latency.
 
Thanks guys for the input. :)

@Hawkmat

May I know, on which ISP your N66U is connected to? Subscribed plan? I understand you got your personal QOS settings enabled in there, are there any special settings that you enabled? Does the DSL Overhead settings in the QOS matters? I'm thinking it shouldn't matter for my fiber subscription.

If you are not using the full 100mbps or are not bothered by latency issues then you don't need QoS. Netflix HD, for example, uses only 12mbps, SD much less. Try without QoS and see if there are any latency issues. If you need QoS and Tomato, then the N66 is ideal.

As for 2.4GHz congestion, make sure channel width is 20MHz, channel 1, 6, or 11. Because of non-wlan devices (phones, baby monitors, etc) and several factors regarding your neighbors wlans, without a proper spectrum analyzer the best channel is identified by trial and error.

N66 has a reputation for stronger signal, but don't judge by the bars on the screen or the SNR on the devices list. Judge by throughput and dropouts from the wireless devices. If performance meets your needs, then you don't need new hardware.

Thanks, Marcel!

Sadly, I believe it's the E3000's weak wireless signal. I already selected 20HMz as channel width, channels 1, 6, or 11 are over crowded, see status below:

Survey.png

status.png

Plus, the devices (3 laptops, 4 iPads, 3 mobile phones, Smart TV's) are getting disconnected, even when they're in the same room where the router is - particularly the iPads which gets disconnected almost every 15-20mins.

Signal is weak on the first floor for 2.4GHz and 5Ghz wont oven show (it's only strong on the 2nd floor of the house) :(
 
You can see huge changes in 5GHz signal strength with very small changes in position and orientation of the access point and the clients, though I'm sure you tried that already. One of my APs ended up under a desk! The lower band of the 5GHz range also works better than the upper for many people. At least on the E4200 the signal strength is similar to the upper band but there is much less non-WLAN noise. The maximum power allowed in the lower band is less according to the standard, but the power of our little routers is way below the maximum allowed, and it seems that the power output is the same with the current drivers in Tomato. Directing the signal with metal, foil, or other objects can also be effective (but often ugly).

If you get the N66, you should strongly consider keeping your current router as an access point in a different part of the house to extend the wireless range. You can then turn the 2.4GHz power down so you don't mess up the clients that are closest to the APs.
 
Thanks guys for the input. :)

@Hawkmat

May I know, on which ISP your N66U is connected to? Subscribed plan? I understand you got your personal QOS settings enabled in there, are there any special settings that you enabled? Does the DSL Overhead settings in the QOS matters? I'm thinking it shouldn't matter for my fiber subscription.



Thanks, Marcel!

Sadly, I believe it's the E3000's weak wireless signal. I already selected 20HMz as channel width, channels 1, 6, or 11 are over crowded, see status below:

View attachment 2039

View attachment 2040

Plus, the devices (3 laptops, 4 iPads, 3 mobile phones, Smart TV's) are getting disconnected, even when they're in the same room where the router is - particularly the iPads which gets disconnected almost every 15-20mins.

Signal is weak on the first floor for 2.4GHz and 5Ghz wont oven show (it's only strong on the 2nd floor of the house) :(

Hi Toink! I have Medicom Cable 105/10 Mbps. Real is 113/11 Mbps. Tomato with QOS off I get full speed with 130+Mbps peaks. With Victek Tomato 1.1ra and QOS active I get a max of 100 Mbs. With Shibby's I could get no higher than 75 Mbs max with QOS active. So right now I'm staying with Victek's Tomato. I have not tried DSL as the fastest service offered here is 5 Mbps. Fiber should be similar to cable in how it interacts with QOS. I assume that when QOS is active it pushes the hardware to its maximum capabilities so a faster processor equals a little higher QOS speed.
 
Thanks hawkmat & Marcel Tunks!

Hmmm, I'll try to reposition again the E3000. Otherwise, a wireless replacement is the only way. Have any of you guys heard or used one of these?

Ubiquity UniFi AP Pro (UAP-Pro) or UniFi AP AC (UAP-AC)

I'm thinking if the QOS is no longer usable in the RT-N66U with my connection, perhaps the Ubiquity is a much better option. Of course I will miss the built-in ad-blocker option in Tomato...

Choices, choices...
 
I think what we're saying is that the N66 will be able to fully use your connection with QoS enabled (see post #2, from hawkmat) but that there are no other currently available Tomato routers that can handle your connection with QoS enabled.
 

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