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Bricked Router With Shibby's Tomato 102 Build On WRT54GL v1.1

Discussion in 'Tomato Firmware' started by AmyGrrl, Oct 23, 2012.

  1. AmyGrrl

    AmyGrrl LI Guru Member

    I have a WRT54GL v1.1. I had 'tomato-K26-1.28.RT-MIPSR1-101-MiniIPv6.trx' flashed to it and it was working fine. No issues running that version of the firmware. Today Shibby came out with a 102 build. So I flashed 'tomato-K26-1.28.RT-MIPSR1-102-MiniIPv6.trx' to the router and it bricked it. I couldn't access the web ui. I couldn't tftp flash a firmware. I had to make a JTAG cable to recover the router. Once I got the 101 build back up and running. I redownloaded the 102 build and attempted to flash it again. I wanted to be sure I was flashing the right file.this time. The same thing happened. I had to JTAG recover the router.

    I would recommend you don't flash the 102 build if you have a WRT54GL. I did flash the 'tomato-K26USB-1.28.RT-MIPSR2-102-AIO.trx' build to my Asus RT-N16 and its working fine. Tomorrow I flash my Asus RT-N16 back to the 101 build just to be safe.
     
  2. lefty

    lefty Networkin' Nut Member

    It is to bad that you didn't include some kind of log to debug this with, i notice that most times when you can post a log of what is going on, then the devs here will look into it and fix the problem, atleast they did with my linksys E1550.
     
  3. AmyGrrl

    AmyGrrl LI Guru Member

    I might be willing to brick my router again. I'm just not sure how to get the log off the router after I brick it.
     
  4. shibby20

    shibby20 Network Guru Member

    i removed all mipsr1 images for now. I have to check those images myself.
     
  5. mstombs

    mstombs Network Guru Member

    You really need to have a working serial console hooked up during the upgrade to see where it crashes. Shouldn't have needed JTAG - or did it need nvram erase? There was a nvram setting for clkfreq that was enough to do this in the past!
     
  6. leandroong

    leandroong Addicted to LI Member

    mine is ok !!! MIPSR1
    FW: Tomato Firmware 1.28.0000 MIPSR1-102 K26 USB AIO.
    Model#: ZTE ZXV10 H618B
    Only problem are extras for mipsr1 as follows:
    1. can't insert input-core.ko for MIPSR1, dmesg says
    input_core: exports duplicate symbol input_unregister_handle (owned by kernel)​
    2. can't inser hid.ko for MIPSR1 dmsg says
    hid: exports duplicate symbol hid_input_report (owned by kernel)​
    3. can't insert usbhid.ko for MIPSR1 dmsg says
    usbhid: exports duplicate symbol hiddev_hid_event (owned by kernel)​
    4. Possible to add v4l1-compat.ko (not in the listing)
    5. Possible to add compat_ioctl32.ko (not in the listing)
     
  7. shibby20

    shibby20 Network Guru Member

    true, i know that but i dont know why that was happend. Can you tell me which version of modules (tomato build) work as last?
     
  8. leandroong

    leandroong Addicted to LI Member

  9. AmyGrrl

    AmyGrrl LI Guru Member

    Maybe its just that one fw file that is the issue. I don't know. I'm willing to let someone screen share and try flashing the fw from the webui. I've tried at least 3 times to flash the fw. The WRT54GL just goes dead. I can't access it at all. The power light just blinks. Power cycle does nothing. Pressing the reset button does nothing. The only way to bring it back was with a JTAG cable I made and then TFTP flash a fw.
     
  10. leandroong

    leandroong Addicted to LI Member

    another mipsr1 report by ghoffman:
    "
    shibby -
    re build 102 - k26-mipsr1-mini:
    i updated two wrt300n routers from build 101 k26-mipsr1-mini and both are bricked. i'll play around tonight to find out more.
    i updated an e3000 with e3000-k26mipsr2-nvram60k-usb-vpn - worked fine
    i updated a belkin N300 with k26-mipsr2-usb-vpn - worked fine.
    is there a problem with mipsr1 in build 102??
    thanks for your hard work as always.
    let me know what i can do to help troubleshoot
    gh"
    same FW?
     
  11. gutsman7

    gutsman7 Networkin' Nut Member

    Did you match the md5 on your file to shibbys. Could be a bad trx.
     
  12. AmyGrrl

    AmyGrrl LI Guru Member

    I checked the MD5 file and it says the MD5 is suppose to be.
    926475fd6be19f4529e30a65ccea8053 tomato-K26-1.28.RT-MIPSR2-102-MiniIPv6.trx

    When I check the MD5 of the file I downloaded. The MD5 is different.
    DBE0FE66B2208C5041238453B7B09229 tomato-K26-1.28.RT-MIPSR1-102-MiniIPv6.trx

    I downloaded the file under WinXP and Win7 and they both have the DBE0FE66B2208C5041238453B7B09229 MD5.
     
  13. leandroong

    leandroong Addicted to LI Member

    is your FW same as ghoffman I reported above? I found it to be different router model but maybe same FW
     
  14. AmyGrrl

    AmyGrrl LI Guru Member

    opps... I thought I was looking at the MIPSR1 MD5 in the file

    dbe0fe66b2208c5041238453b7b09229 tomato-K26-1.28.RT-MIPSR1-102-MiniIPv6.trx

    So they do match.
     
  15. ghoffman

    ghoffman Addicted to LI Member

    i'll check the md5 on the firmware i tried to flash when i get home.
    but i don't think it's just a mipsr1 problem - i think it's a small build problem (???) when flashing via the web gui?
    i bricked:
    two wrt150n's with
    http://tomato.groov.pl/download/K24/build5x-102-EN/tomato-ND-1.28.5x-102-VPN.trx (3.4MB)
    i recovered one of these via tftp after many tries; the other needs the serial fix that i'll work on tonight.
    one e1000 with
    http://tomato.groov.pl/download/K26/build5x-102-EN/tomato-K26-1.28.RT-MIPSR2-102-Mini.trx (3.7MB)
    this requires a serial port fix also.
    i was successful on:
    e3000 with
    http://tomato.groov.pl/download/K26...-E3000USB-NVRAM60K-1.28.RT-MIPSR2-102-VPN.bin
    wnr3500v2 with
    http://tomato.groov.pl/download/K26/build5x-102-EN/tomato-K26USB-1.28.RT-MIPSR2-102-VPN.trx
    belkin sharemax 300 with
    http://tomato.groov.pl/download/K26/build5x-102-EN/tomato-K26USB-1.28.RT-MIPSR2-102-VPN.trx
     
  16. ghoffman

    ghoffman Addicted to LI Member

    update:
    i have reflashed the above bricked routers successfully after recovering via serial console.
    i used the same firmware images that i had originally tried.

    process that bricked:
    shibby v101 -> gui upgrade to shibby v102

    process that worked:
    serial console -> tftp recovery to original fw -> gui upgrade to ddwrt -> gui upgrade to tomato

    thanks!
    gh
     
  17. arafey

    arafey Addicted to LI Member

    Please don't interpret this as being impatient. I understand how much hard work goes into each build and I'm very thankful, but...

    what is the status of the 102 builds for mipsr1? They're still not in the repository (http://tomato.groov.pl/download/K26/build5x-102-EN/).

    Thanks
     
  18. AmyGrrl

    AmyGrrl LI Guru Member

    I've been wondering the same thing. Shibby didn't even update his site to say what was going on with the MIPSR1 builds.
     
  19. phlibby

    phlibby Reformed Router Member

    I just screwed up a WRT54G v1.1. I flashed it to the original 1.28 tomato for that model. Went fine. Then I flashed tomato-ND-1.28.8754-Std and after hours of trying to recover it, it just went in the garbage. THAT IS SO FRUSTRATING. I really wish they would be a little more specific on what you are and are not supposed to use. It took me a LONG time just to decide what to try. They are so smart in some ways and so stupid in others. They expect us to know what ND-1.28.8754 means. I don't know what the ND stands for. I think - they should just say - use this for this and that for that. Because I don't talk jibber jabber, I just ruined a classic good router. ANGRY!
     
    Last edited: Oct 7, 2014
  20. mstombs

    mstombs Network Guru Member

    phlibby likes this.
  21. Monk E. Boy

    Monk E. Boy Network Guru Member

    Indeed, nobody really talks jibber jabber, we just do the requisite research to discover what things mean. I typed "Tomato ND" into Google and the first link was tomatousb.org's build types page that mstombs linked to, which explains the jibber jabber of those old builds. Every time I look at Shibby's builds I have to poke around to figure out his naming convention, but he documents what it all means. And when I get hopelessly confused, I don't reply to an old thread like this one, I create a new one and ask for help. Nobody here bites, we all get confused sooner or later, and certainly remember what it was like to be new to Tomato.
     
  22. phlibby

    phlibby Reformed Router Member

    I really must apologize for losing my temper. I was frustrated out of my mind. I should have just thrown that old router away anyway. It's just too old to do anything with. I have just been thrown into the IT world and it is definitely my weakest point. I am on a very steep learning curve here and, even thought I have dappled in it for years, I am still light years away from any of you about understanding how these things work. Nobody's fault but my own. You are right I should have just asked someone. Next time I sure will. Thanks for your advice. I really don't know what I'm doing. I'm great with electronics. That is where I have my degree. But I really suck at being an IT Guy. I really didn't mean what I said. It's just so far over my head. I can't seem to grasp it and I let my frustration get the best of me. Thanks again for your advice and I will ask next time - before I ruin something.
    Hey, I do have a question though. I have an Arris TC8305C. It has 4 network ports. I am coming out of each of those(well using 3 at the moment) to Wireless N routers. 3 network segments. One on 192.168.2.0/24, one on 192.168.3.0/24 and one on 192.168.4.0/24. When I set up the Qos, do I divide the total bandwidth by 3 or do I set it like I see it when I do a speed test? Do I treat each segment as if it is to handle 1/3rd or just use the total? Really confused about this Qos but I think it would help in my situation. I wouldn't blame you if you told me to take a hike after what I said. I really am sorry about that.

    Pat
     
  23. phlibby

    phlibby Reformed Router Member

    Oh well. It had been in one of our houses for EVER and it was cutting out before I started. I'll just chalk that up to learning and move on. Thanks for telling me what ND stands for. Now I know more. I really like Shibbys new stuff. The GUI is KILLER! Best I've ever seen. I'm trying to learn how to set up Qos from the Toastman links. Really fascinating stuff.
     
  24. phlibby

    phlibby Reformed Router Member

    You know what? I got the router back out of the trash this morning and decided to try to un-jam it. Even if it is going bad, it would still be a great learning experience. It just might still be good. It acts like it is working but I can't ping it or log into it. It just blinks its lights like its working but nobody's home. Weird. I have not seen one brick up like this before. What do you think I should do? After thought: I want to make clear, this is not actually a GL. It's just a G, 54G V1.1.
     
  25. phlibby

    phlibby Reformed Router Member

    Can't figure out how to post the proper way so I will just throw it here:
    I have an Arris TC8305C. It has 4 network ports. I am coming out of each of those(well using 3 at the moment) to Wireless N routers. 3 network segments. One on 192.168.2.0/24, one on 192.168.3.0/24 and one on 192.168.4.0/24. When I set up the Qos, do I divide the total bandwidth by 3 or do I set it like I see it when I do a speed test? Do I treat each segment as if it is to handle 1/3rd or just use the total? Really confused about this Qos but I think it would help in my situation.
     
  26. Siff

    Siff Serious Server Member

    Start a new thread?
     
  27. mstombs

    mstombs Network Guru Member

  28. phlibby

    phlibby Reformed Router Member

    Where? How? You mean new post? I just don't get it. I go to where the topic is what I'm wanting to talk and there is no way...
     
  29. Siff

    Siff Serious Server Member

    My point above was about this post:
    What you are asking here is a specific question (most likely related to the configuration of your modem as well as to the configuration of your routers) and since it is un-related to the original thread, it is much more likely to catch the attention of members who can answer it if it is in its own thread.

    New thread is created by pressing the "Post New Thread" button at the bottom right of a forum's page (e.g. "Tomato Firmware"); a new post is created by pressing the "Post Reply" button in an existing thread.

    Hope this helps.

    P.S. Good luck with your WRT54G :)
     
  30. phlibby

    phlibby Reformed Router Member

    That is exactly what I needed. Thank you so much. I just haven't really done this type of thing before. I think you have explained it in the best way it could be done. You have set me on the right track now. I knew it was probably a simple thing but I could not figure out how this worked. Thanks again and you have a Great Day!
    Pat
     

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