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Tomato capable E3000 70 bucks at Fry's Electronics

Discussion in 'Tomato Firmware' started by jsmiddleton4, Dec 31, 2011.

  1. jsmiddleton4

    jsmiddleton4 Network Guru Member

  2. RonV

    RonV Network Guru Member

    They had a pallet of these at the Fry's here in Chicago yesterday.
     
  3. jsmiddleton4

    jsmiddleton4 Network Guru Member

    They are a great value. The full dual band gives me lots of options for setting them up.
     
  4. eahm

    eahm LI Guru Member

    Newegg had them for $49.99 and Amazon for ~$60 for ever.
     
  5. jsmiddleton4

    jsmiddleton4 Network Guru Member

    Far as I know Newegg's are refurbs at 49.99. New ones at 80. Same at Amazon.
     
  6. bucher

    bucher Networkin' Nut Member

    I bought a newegg refurb and the power adapter was dead. RMAd it back to them, waiting on my replacement, hopefully this one works.
     
  7. Hogan773

    Hogan773 Networkin' Nut Member

    I got a new E3000 from Newegg for $69.99 a few weeks ago.

    Its a little scary that there is an INCREDIBLY LARGE supply of "refurbs" in the system for Newegg and Amazon to sell.......thus far mine works but it doesn't seem to be giving me the speeds I expected even though I'm on Viktek's RAF build.
     
  8. ppsun

    ppsun Networkin' Nut Member

    A useful tip about running these E3000 is the vented holes are on the underside and can get quite hot. Keep the bottom raised off the table surface or, what I did was, flip it upside down.
     
  9. Hogan773

    Hogan773 Networkin' Nut Member

    I raised it about an inch with some cardboard feet. Hard to know whether heat is affecting my performance or whethet i just have a noisy wireless neighborhood. Im only getting 11-15 mbits per sec according to speedtest while wired is 20-23
     
  10. ppsun

    ppsun Networkin' Nut Member

    That's probably sufficient ventilation at comfortable room temperatures. But your wired speed looks pretty bad; if it's an internal-only LAN test. Should be expecting more than triple that speed even for 100bt.
     
  11. Hogan773

    Hogan773 Networkin' Nut Member

    No, that 20-23 is the limit of my internet (Comcast). That is using Speedtest. I only use it to compare the "loss" from the wifi connection: my internet can apparently pull 20-23 Mbps down and 4 up, and on wireless I get anywhere between 11-15 generally and 4 up.
     
  12. ppsun

    ppsun Networkin' Nut Member

    Yeah, the wifi speed looks OK for a location populated with other APs. You can try optimizing the channel with the help of a wifi scanner like; inSSIDer for windows or wifi analyzer for android. Find a quieter channel - I usually stick to 1, 6 or 11. It's the first thing I check whenever my wifi speed starts to slow down.
     
  13. Hogan773

    Hogan773 Networkin' Nut Member

    Unfortunately I've got a bunch of "2WIRE330"s plus some other neighbors, some of which are using channel bonding according to my InSSIDer. I am of course the strongest signal but there are 6-8 other bastiges out there in the -70-85db range - enough to create a bunch of background noise I guess.

    Now where can I buy a jammer......
     
  14. Toastman

    Toastman Super Moderator Staff Member Member

    "N" routers on 2.4GHz ARE jammers :)

    From talking with a distributor here it seems that there are an unusually large number of people returning the E3000 for various reasons, which is in itself suspicious. From my experience of "refurb" houses, they do nothing at all except check that there is OEM firmware on the router. After all, they are basically dumping the things just to get rid of them, they aren't going to spend more than a couple of minutes with each one. That's why there are a lot of refurb units that really did have hardware problems being recirculated, and why there are so many busted power bricks - they weren't tested.
     
  15. bucher

    bucher Networkin' Nut Member

  16. Hogan773

    Hogan773 Networkin' Nut Member

    I tried cranking my E3000 up to 150 just to see if the power settings were working, and I actually could notice a drop in db signal on InSSIDER. But it didn't seem to really materially improve my throughput so I quickly took it back down for fear of riding the chips too hot and hard for no reason. I've just left mine at 55, hoping that is a good safe zone but still reasonable power.
     
  17. ppsun

    ppsun Networkin' Nut Member

    I think I run mine at 72mW for many months now. Though, I don't think it matters much in my dozen-plus APs environment. 5Ghz@40Mhz should be great, even at default settings, as it's mostly deserted right now.
     
  18. bucher

    bucher Networkin' Nut Member

    I'm only using 28mA on the 5ghz radio, for some reason I feel like I read that. It's so nice being the only one around using 5ghz.
     
  19. Hogan773

    Hogan773 Networkin' Nut Member

    My WAN connection is especially slow right now - all my neighbors must be watching streaming video on their 2WIRE330s. I can hardly get 2Mbps down. InSSIDER is lit up like a Christmas tree.

    Time to investigate a 5ghz adapter. Gotta figure out how to crack open this laptop cause I'd like to replace the little PCI wifi card.
     
  20. jsmiddleton4

    jsmiddleton4 Network Guru Member

    "how to crack open this laptop"

    I have found "how to's" on line for all of our laptops. If you have an HP some of them have whitelist in their bios. They will only boot if they find hardware in that whitelist. I had to find instructions on how to defeat that in my HP so I could go to a dual mode broadcom wlan card. Works fine but ran the risk of bricking my laptop by messing with its bios.

    Some of them are on the bottom and easy to reach. Found a Dell's under its keyboard and had to get to it by lifting out keyboard.

    You will need to find out if its a full length mini-pci-e card or 1/2 length. Once you know the type of card in yours finding replacement new cards on ebay is easy. They don't cost very much either.

    While I like my broadcom the one that I've toyed with that seems to be the best and easiest to setup is the Atheros based ones. AR92xx ones.
     
  21. Hogan773

    Hogan773 Networkin' Nut Member

    Found it! http://www.ifixit.com/Guide/Disassembling-Acer-Timeline-4810T/6149/1

    Gawd I love the Internet. What did we all do before it? :confused:
     
  22. bucher

    bucher Networkin' Nut Member

    Break a lot of stuff
     
  23. Toastman

    Toastman Super Moderator Staff Member Member

    Agreed. Probably did what mechanics do here when they don't have the manual for your nice new car - break out the dashboard with a hammer and crowbar, and stick it back in with mastik. Of course your new car never looks quite the same again ...

    I refuse to work on laptops now, the time required to disassemble them, locate and fix the problem (often impossible without access to OEM tools) and reassemble makes it totally uneconomical to repair the damned things, especially as without the tools, you often can't even test them until you've reassembled. And if you bust it - you're responsible ...
     
  24. jsmiddleton4

    jsmiddleton4 Network Guru Member

    I've done a 15.4 screen Sony, my 15.4 inch HP, a 14 inch Dell. My HP easiest hardware wise. The Sony was easy as well as the bottom came off, the motherboard was in the top half assembly so bottom was not attached to any electronics. The Dell the hardest and honestly if I had to do it over again would go with a mini-usb dongle. Looked at a Sony 14 Vaio but not touching it. Full disassembly required.
     
  25. jsmiddleton4

    jsmiddleton4 Network Guru Member

    Hogan...

    Looks like you wlan card is under your keyboard so not too much disassembly required. Be VERY careful with the ZIF adapter slots. Easily broken. There is a web site that talks about how to fix them but basically once broken you either have to replace the entire mother board OR do a fix job on them. You don't really repair them as you can't. You put them back together as best you can so they work and then use the type of tape they use on laptop motherboards to secure the module and the ribbon cable. Other than that everything else is just a matter of taking your time. Its not rocket science......

    You card looks to be a 1/2 card. If it has bluetooth built into the card those are available too. If not it is a crap shoot as to whether or not a bluetooth/wlan card can plug in and work. The bluetooth piece requires some of the pins to go to the USB circuit. I'm not exactly sure what the technical name is for those kinds of sockets. They look like pci-e sockets like the rest but to have the bluetooth piece work requires some extra lines on the motherboard to feed a different circuit.

    For me I went from a broadcom based wlan only chipset to another broadcom based wlan only chipset. Everything works including the on/off switch for wireless card on outside of my laptop case. Once I figured out how to hack the bios to stop the dang HP hardware check everything else was easy.
     
  26. jsmiddleton4

    jsmiddleton4 Network Guru Member

    By the way guitar picks are near essential tool for disassembly. They work perfectly for getting press on pieces loose, etc. Does not look like you have too far to go though and only need to pop keyboard out.
     
  27. Hogan773

    Hogan773 Networkin' Nut Member

    Thanks. Not sure where to find out a lot about different 1/2 height adapters. I keep coming onto the Intel Centrino 6200 series as a good choice (I realize Toast said he hates Intel clients though). These don't seem to be things where Newegg has 12 different versions to sell......they're more of a techy item. Non-techies just buy the USB dongle and be content....... Not sure where I find out about a Broadcom version. And Cisco/Linksys doesn't really play in this mini PCI WLAN market right?

    I am furiously Googling ZIF adapter now......but what is it and why am I touching it? It appears that when I pop my keyboard, there will be a little cutout where the WLAN card sits, and I'll put the new one in there. Are you referring to the socket where the WLAN card plugs into the mobo as being dainty?
     
  28. jsmiddleton4

    jsmiddleton4 Network Guru Member

    "Not sure where to find out a lot about different 1/2 height adapters."

    eBay for new ones. Just search on "wlan pci-e n" You want to get dual mode ones too. Some of the "older" ones will be the first wave of single mode N or 150mbs.

    If you don't have to pull the cable to the keyboard don't. The jack it sits plugs into on the motherboard is the ZIF adapter. You maybe able to work around it. ZIF stands for zero force insertion.

    The socket for the WLAN card is a pci-e socket. Not wimpy in anyway. Hardest part of that is getting little screws back in. Watch it when you loosen screws as the card is under a slight bit of tension and will pop up a bit. Small screws can go flying. I put the small screws back in the new card and then carefully reseat it with the screws in the card. Then tighten screws. Or you can use the tweezers on the "tools list" in that pdf.
     
  29. Hogan773

    Hogan773 Networkin' Nut Member

    Ok - perhaps I can just flip the keyboard aside to get to the WLAN hole. We'll see. That would be a D'OH moment if I kill my $700 laptop in search of an extra 5Mbps wireless speeds in a card replacement.

    Re: EBAY - as I posted in the other thread, seems there is a lot of counterfeiting going on with these WLAN cards. Lots of threads about Intel 6200s and 6300s being fakes. So I gotta pull the slot machine handle on that too. Although Ebay is VERY buyer-friendly so worst case I probably lose some return shipping cost. Unfortunately since this is more of an OEM product its probably harder to just buy a nice little retail box with my WLAN card in it so I know its real (although even then I guess it could be faked)
     
  30. jsmiddleton4

    jsmiddleton4 Network Guru Member

    I only buy new and from US addresses. The ZIF and ribbon cable for the keyboard is not that challenging. Just wanted to give you a heads up on being gentle.

    You can buy retail boxed versions. Most of the laptop parts supply houses carry them. Twice to three times as expensive.

    I've bought two broadcom based dual mode card from this source. Both legit cards.

    http://myworld.ebay.com/electro_room/?_trksid=p4340.l2559

    Here is Atheros:

    http://www.ebay.com/itm/Atheros-AR5...561?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item20c0507bf9
     
  31. jsmiddleton4

    jsmiddleton4 Network Guru Member

  32. Hogan773

    Hogan773 Networkin' Nut Member

    ABSOLUTELY (dual band) - that is the reason I'm doing it. I just want the fastest, longest, bestest little postage stamp of a card that can run circles around my Wifi 1000 that's in there now. I only have 2 antenna wires so I won't spend up to get the 450mbps kind (and the router reviews on SmallNetBuilder seem to seriously question any meaningful improvement with the 450 routers anyway).

    And I want to be able to get drivers and not have it be "not recognized" and all that junk. And I don't want it to be a fake or an engineering sample or whatever. If I go Atheros I assume I can google and get drivers somewhere reputable? I just know I won't be able to get them from the Acer laptop website.

    I can't access the link to the Atheros you mentioned. Was it from a different seller? What model? I came across mention of a 9832 somewhere else.
     
  33. jsmiddleton4

    jsmiddleton4 Network Guru Member

    I link right to it. Search on this if the link doesn't work.

    AR5BXB92

    Different seller. But new and US only. Driver down load is not a problem. You can get them lots of places including laptop maker's support site. Acer might in fact have them. Won't be for you model laptop but for new model laptops the driver might be on Acer's site. I used Dell's for my broadcom in my HP. Worked fine. If you have Windows 7 you might already have the driver.

    http://www.ebay.com/itm/Atheros-AR5...561?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item20c0507bf9

    Broadcom dual band.

    http://www.ebay.com/itm/Broadcom-43...140?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item1c21ee3b34
     

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