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WRT54G V4 - CHIP cooling and antenna cho

Discussion in 'Modding Forum' started by Joon, Apr 27, 2007.

  1. Joon

    Joon Guest

    [​IMG]
    Hi.
    I'm going to connect 12dbi can-antenna(with LMR400 cable) to WRT54G v4.

    Which port(ANT1 or ANT2) would be better for preventing signal loss. Ant2 has short cable and ANT1 don't have.
    (on DD-WRT v23 sp2, TX RX mode to Right or Left)

    Also, I'm going to change transmit power only after upgrading dd-wrt v23 sp2 firmware.
    which chipset do I need to install heatsink, Arrow 1,2 or 3?
     
  2. teclis22

    teclis22 LI Guru Member

    Aloah, not an expert, but Arrow 2 should be the cpu.

    The unmarked block right side from cpu is the ram.

    1 is the flash chip and 3 i dont know.
     
  3. sutil

    sutil LI Guru Member

    its the network contoller
     
  4. sutil

    sutil LI Guru Member

    even on my wap54g im using right antenna port for my external antenna based on my experiment right antenna port is much better but using left antenna port has no big difference
     
  5. vincentfox

    vincentfox Network Guru Member

    Have to be careful about "right" and "left", from which side of router front or back? Changes with different models. Very annoying.

    I am wondering if the ANT2 with the wire to it is better protected. If you look at the solder points at the base of it, it appears to be shunting off DC ground to some beefy capacitors and other components. The ANT1 uses much smaller components. I am thinking in terms of outdoor mounting ANT1 might not withstand ordinary ESD (electrostatic discharge) as well.

    Some people have reported they cut the diversity switch and just solder a wire across that part of the circuit. As I understand it the diversity switch has a 2 dBi signal loss, so for directional usage just removing that altogether is a benefit since you are only going to use one antenna port anyhow.

    As to cooling, I stick a cheap aluminum ram-sink on #2 just because I have a lot of them lying around. If you run the GL for a bit and put your finger down on different components #2 is definitely the hottest. I use a dozen or so WRT54GL in outdoor enclosures and in attic crawlspace in summertime for several years now, and no problems. Total power used in GL is only 5 Watts which is really not much heat to dissipate, the CPU is a smaller fraction of that. Most chips are fine to very high temps that would burn your finger not just make you warm. A component that WILL degrade faster with heat for sure, is the electrolytic capacitors. But not much you can do about that, more dry and hot location it's in the faster the caps will die. Could be replaced with solid-state caps I suppose for longer lifespan?

    Lastly I wouldn't bother messing with transmit power. I ran quite long links at stock power using 2 WRT with directionals pointed at each other. All increasing the transmit power does is increase the noise in a WRT. I have used the Hawking external amps in one instance, that actually did the job I needed on a difficult link where boosting transmit power did nothing but increase noise. I would NOT mess with any of that until you have established that you need to. Good antenna choice and placement should come first. 2nd is testing. Antenna alignment for long-range links, polarization setting, things that matter. Fiddling with minor factors comes way down on the list.
     

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